Adopt a Barn Cat (or two) and Save A Life!

Our barn cats:

  • are spayed/neutered

  • are vaccinated for rabies

  • are ear-tipped for easy identification

  • make great mousers and snakers

  • may or may not be friendly enough to be companions

  • prefer to be outside

  • are free

    Yes, the cost to adopt a barn cat is free, but you must provide daily food and water and a safe environment. A barn is not required, but adequate shelter is. Cats hunt rodents whether they are hungry or not, so there’s no need to withhold food for that purpose. If they aren’t fed, they will leave your property.

    Where do these cats come from? The HSSBC’s     Community Cat Program is a trap-neuter-return (TNR) program that is a humane approach for reducing the outdoor cat population by preventing future litters. TNR also keeps outdoor cats healthier and reduces aggressive behaviors. The last word in TNR is “return” and we do that with just about all TNR cats because it is better for the cat. But, some cats must be relocated because their caregiver has died or moved away, their environment is dangerous, or their home has been destroyed by new construction. Relocation is always a last resort.

This is where YOU can help. Please adopt a barn cat or two or three and save a life!

Contact us for cats or for more information:
912-681-9393 or borohumane@gmail.com

Are you seeing outside cats and want to get them fixed? We can help with that too!
Visit: Community Cat Program

True testimonial…
”Mice were chewing the wires on my vehicles and electrical tools. I adopted four TNR cats that lost their home when their caretaker died. No more chewed wires and I have a great cat crew that greets me in the morning and likes to watch me work!” - Middleground resident

Relocating an Outdoor Cat

Cats bond to their environment and are territorial. Relocation is always a last resort. Do not relocate cats near busy roads or high foot-traffic areas. Keep in mind that changing their environment requires extra time and care in the very beginning.

HOW TO PREPARE

Have a Safe, Enclosed Home Base Ready

If set free upon arrival, all cats will attempt to return to their former home and may get lost or killed. It’s important to confine cats in large crates covered with a sheet for privacy and sense of security or a completely secure building—tack room, garden shed, or other enclosed area for at least 2 weeks—ideally, 4 weeks. Confinement allows the cats to adjust to the new environment and to you as their new caretaker. Keep in mind that if there is a small hole in your transition containment area (4 inches in width) then a cat will attempt to escape through it until they are successful. They are resourceful and focused when they have a goal.

Supplies

Prep your holding area and collect your supplies before the cats arrive. These supplies can include: wet cat food, dry cat food, cat treats, litter, large litter box (ideally, 1 box per cat), litter scoop, water and food bowls, cardboard boxes for them to hide inside when you enter, catnip, and cat toys.

Climate Control

During warm weather, it is essential to provide ventilation that does not allow escape. During cooler months, loose straw (not hay) can help retain heat.

Cat Proofing Your Property

Consider any existing pest-control products that could poison or harm your new cats. Remove fly and rodent glue traps, snap mouse traps, and unsecured antifreeze. Walk around and remove sharp objects where they might be running and jumping.

UPON ARRIVAL

Settling In

During the first few days, the cats will try to get out. Most cats settle down once they realize that they are safe and life is good. While confined, they must have clean water, fresh food, and clean (or scooped) litter at least once each day.

Routine is Important

During confinement, feeding canned wet food helps them accept their new home. Feed the same time every day. Cats love structure and dislike change, so a daily feeding schedule will help them adjust and look forward to your arrival. Continue to stick to this schedule after they are released. This routine will encourage the cats to return for food every day at the same time. Wet food can be given several times a day to increase interaction and bonding, but you may have to leave the area for the cat to actually eat. Remember, cats hunt rodents whether they are hungry or not, so do not withhold food. If they are not fed, they may leave your property. Oftentimes, cats will “gift” you with a dead rodent as a thanks to their caretaker.

If ant-infested food becomes a problem, place the food bowl on top of a water-filled saucer. Ants will not cross over the water. If flies are present, only put down enough food that can be consumed within 20 minutes. Do not put up adhesive fly tape strips—cats are very much attracted to hanging “toys.”

Hydration

Fresh water is important and cats are finicky drinkers. Keep bowls clean and away from food bowls, if possible. Cats instinctually assume a water source near food could be contaminated and will avoid drinking as a result. Add small amounts of water to their wet food If there are dehydration concerns.

Bonding with Treats and Cat Calls

Giving cat treats can be a positive reinforcement when interacting with your cat(s). They will learn to associate you with a delicious reward. If the cat is shy or unfriendly, just leave it behind for it to find. Make some kind of sound whenever you are feeding at each meal or giving treats. A simple “here, kitty, kitty,” a whistle, or calling them by their names will alert them to come running when you call. This is important after they are released for routine feeding or just checking to see if they are safe.

Other Tips

  • Try not to co-mingle other animal scents when handling items in their space (i.e., wash your hands, wash bedding in their own laundry load).

  • Speak softly and avoid jarring loud noises in their space.

  • Avoid sustained eye contact that could be misinterpreted as aggression or predatory behavior. Blinking very slowly at them gives them a nonverbal cue that you are not an aggressor of any kind. And, sometimes, they blink back to show their trust!

  • Don’t get frustrated if they continue to run from your approach. Some cats are capable of forming relationships that allow touching and some never will. Their fear is a survival skill that kept them alive before you came into their life. They still appreciate you in their own way.

IN CASE OF ESCAPE BEFORE PLANNED RELEASE

Recovering an escapee

If a cat escapes from the enclosure, use your cat call, shake a treat, or dramatically open a wet can of food to lure the missing cat. If he comes out, feed him to encourage him to stay in the area and repeat this process each day at the same time or even a couple times a day to reinforce this bonding. If no response, you can set food and water out-–the smellier the food, the better (i.e., sardines in oil). This will encourage the escapee to stay close and help lure the cat back. Cats often hide for a period of time after escape (~24 hours), but usually stay on or near the premises and will often only come out after dark when they feel safe. They tend to slink close to the ground and along things in the environment that can hide or camouflage them. You can sometimes find them more easily in the dark by looking for their reflective eyes with a flashlight.

Safety First

For obvious reasons, do not try to chase or handle a cat who is scared! The best option is Irresistible foods and treats that lead her back to her enclosure or just keep her in the area. If you want to retrap the cat, the HSSBC can lend you a drop trap that sits up in the air while trapping. TNR cats typically will not go back into the regular box trop that started their TNR adventure.

THE PLANNED RELEASE

  • Cats can be transitioned to dry food after release, but wet food is more enticing and increases hydration which is helpful for their overall health.

  • Choose a quiet spot and create nearby hiding places where the cats can go after being released. This can be bales of hay or boxes. If done during colder months, be sure the cats have adequate winter shelter, such as large Styrofoam coolers stuffed with straw (not hay).

  • Cats will explore their new surroundings, so leave their enclosure area open for them to return. Encourage their return by using smelly cat food that will lure them in at the same time of day you always fed them. Be sure to use your cat call to let them know it’s feeding time. Do not disturb them while they eat. They need to feel safe so they will stick around in their new home.

Tips for Success

A survey of caregivers revealed that relocations were most likely to succeed when four main steps were followed:

  1. Cats were confined in an adequate environment for at least 2 weeks. Release can be sooner if the cats are seriously agitated.

  2. Cats were fed canned food every day for a short period (2-6 weeks) and then changed to dry food, or continue with some canned.

  3. The new caregiver made frequent—at least twice daily—verbal attempts to bond with the cats. Avoid staring into their eyes so they don’t interpret that as aggression. Slowly blinking at cats also puts them at ease and they will often blink back when relaxed!

  4. While they might not know how to use them, give them toys and catnip. This can help ease the stress of confinement and relocation.